Despite the fact that the Spring 2026 Dsquared2 collections were not presented on the runway, designers Dean and Dan Caten described the season with one instructive word: “exaggeration.” They spoke of achieving “excess,” evoking the late‑’90s and early‑2000s editorial glamour while leaning into their signature rebellious theatrics.
A Shift in Delivery: From Catwalk to Lookbook & Showroom
Rather than debuting during an official fashion week, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection was unveiled through a curated lookbook and private showroom appointments launched in early July 2025, following Milan Men’s Fashion Week. The show calendar was purposefully bypassed, and instead the Catens hosted celebratory brand‑30th‑anniversary events, including a party rather than a runway show.
This alternative format drove focused storytelling and allowed the designers to stage their vision unconstrained by a traditional live show environment.
The DNA of Exaggeration & Hybrid Construction
1. Contrast & Decoration
- On the men’s side, sheer pop‑colored shirts and recurring cheetah prints played off sharply tailored suits and rugged canvas jackets. Studs, intarsia embroidery, oversized sequins, and tone‑on‑tone cockade appliqués ramped up the drama.
- Womenswear mirrored this extravagance, via magenta micro‑skirts, wide‑leg trousers, and power shoulders inspired by rugby uniforms—carried across denim and jersey with built‑in waistband details.
2. Hybrid Fashion
- Corsetry layered over military attire or floating dresses reimagined traditional shapes.
- Men’s blazers fused with active‑wear fastenings; tank tops featured backpack straps, simulating a layered effect.
- Bodysuit‑shirt hybrids, archive‑referencing ICONique T‑shirts, and built‑in lingerie waistbands created playful friction between styles.
Fashion Meets Music: The Iconique Project
As part of their rollout, the Catens launched a musical project titled “Iconique,” collaborating with Grammy‑nominated rapper Latto, JC Chasez, and producer Jimmy Harry. The song tied into the limited capsule within the collection, incorporating archival graphics and logos across T‑shirts and sweat sets.
Through this cross‑medium strategy, Dsquared2 emphasized creative control and digital storytelling—positioning the collection as both fashion and cultural statement meant to resonate online and offline.
Why No Traditional Runway?
- Creative Freedom: Bypassing fashion week allowed the Catens to craft a highly stylized narrative via still imagery and one‑on‑one presentations.
- Strategic Timing: Launching after Milan Men’s Week kept surprise momentum while aligning with the brand’s 30th stewardship celebrations.
- Defining Legacy: The collection and its music release reflect a pivot toward immersive brand storytelling, distancing itself from rigid seasonal rigidity.
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